In this article we will cover everything you need to know about betta fish tanks, including: the ideal betta fish tank size, essential aquarium accessories, betta favored decorations and maintenance. In addition, we will cover the best betta fish tank mates and some aquarium community members to avoid to ensure your fish are happy and thriving.
A single betta fish needs a dechlorinated freshwater fish tank that is a minimum of 3-gallons. A sponge filter, aquarium light and water heater running at 76 and 80 degrees is ideal. Betta fish love hiding places such as caves, plants and enjoy moss balls, smooth rocks and gravel. A filtered 3-gallon betta fish tank should have a weekly 20% water change and be cleaned every 3 to 4 weeks. 4 to 6 females to 1 male betta fish are best but two male betta fish will often result in territorial fighting. A single male betta can happily live with most community fish of other species but prefer to live alone.
This article focuses on the environmental setup for your Betta fish. For more helpful information answering many common questions about Betta fish and the best methods for caring for your betta fish, please see our article Essentials to Caring for Betta Fish.
Below is a photo of one of my fish tanks at home with an older single male betta fish with more than a dozen colorful non-aggressive community fish of varying species.
What type of tank does a betta fish need?
The shape of the fish tank doesn’t really matter. The most important fish tank type or feature to a betta is one that provides accessibility to air. Bettas are part of a species of called labyrinth fish which have the unique ability to breath oxygen from its gills as well as breathing air in through its mouth. A good tank design will keep water and oxygen moving through its filter and have enough air available at the top of the aquarium for betta to surface and take a deep breath.
It is always a good idea to have a cover on your fish tank to minimize water evaporation and to keep your fish safe from potentially jumping out of your tank.
What is the best size tank for a betta fish?
Betta fish are 2.25 inches or 5.7 cm when they are fully grown. A good approach to choosing the best fish tank size is to apply the “one inch of fish per gallon of water rule”. Using the fully grown length of your fish, apply this rule as a guide to selecting the appropriate tank size. For example, if you plan to have 1 male betta and 4 female southern platy fish whose average adult size is about the same size as a betta then you multiply 2.25 inches by the number of fish you plan to have. In this example a total of 5 fish would be 11.25 inches would equate to needing an aquarium that was at least 11.25 gallons. In the world of fish tanks, bigger is always better.
What do bettas like in their tank?
Betta fish are pretty smart and are trainable. In fact, there are several videos online showing trained betta fish jumping out of the water through a hoop! And it isn’t too hard to train them to eat out of your hand. These intelligent fish can become board so setting up your betta fish tank with interesting attractions is worthwhile to keep your fish happy.
Bettas love to explore, they love hiding places, caves, plants and logs. From time to time, they will play hide and seek with other fish. The placement of tank additions should ideally block the view of other decorations so that the line of sight (from the fish perspective) doesn’t have a clear view from one end of the tank to the other. Bettas will play in free floating plants like guppy grass and toys like a floating betta log where they will sleep, play, bread, feed and create their bubblenest for their future young
Live plants are best for a betta aquarium because it more closely simulates the bettas natural environment. Live plants clean your water and provides balance to a more natural ecosystem but require more maintenance. Betta fish love to hide in tall grasses and plants so think of the placement of the plants in the same way you would your decorations. Place them in way that does not provide a clear line of sight from one end of the tank to the other end of the tank. We will often place medium to tall plants in the middle to back half of the tank and use a zig-zag pattern for the fish to swim through.
If you are going to use fake plants then do not use plastic as they break down over time, colors will fade and are not good for the environment. Silk plants are higher quality alternatives that generally hold up longer and are gentler on the bettas skin. Bettas will use the silk leaves as a hammock and lay on them to rest.
How often do you change the water in a betta fish tank?
If you have a small betta fish bowl with a single betta fish that does not have a water filter, has no live plants, is exposed to 8 to 10 hours of light per day and is simply a bowl with a betta fish in it then you will need to change 50% of the water every 2-to-3 days and clean the bowl at least once a week.
If you have a 3-to-10-gallon betta fish tank with a water filter, live plants, controlled lighting that follows a daily natural sunlight schedule, you have not exceeded the “one inch of fish per gallon of water rule” then you will need to change 20% of the water weekly and clean the fish tank once every 3-to-4 weeks.
As a general rule, the more fish you have in your aquarium, the more waste product is created and the more frequently you will have to perform water changes and clean your tank.
How often do you clean a betta fish tank?
Periodic cleaning of your fish tank is essential to maintaining the health and beauty of all who live there. The fish tank cleaning process is fairly simple, takes 15 to 30 minutes and will keep your occupants happy, your tank beautiful and prevents fish disease. It also lowers fish stress and ensures the longevity of the ecosystem.
There are 7 steps to cleaning a fish tank. Step 1, unplug all powered devices to your tank, Step 2, clean the inside glass with an algae scrub pad, Step 3, remove living plants and fish, Step 4, scrub and clean artificial plants and decorations, Step 5, clean waste material and debris from the bottom of the tank with a gravel vacuum, Step 6, perform a 25% water change, Step 7, wait one week to clean or replace the filter.
Resist the temptation to remove all the water and replace the gravel or sand. There are essential bacterial colonies in your aquarium that need an established substrate to call home in order to survive. These good bacteria help to convert harmful waste to harmless nitrites in the water and are beneficial to a well-balanced aquarium. With some minor effort and the proper cleaning supplies your tank will be a beautiful habitat and a wonder to watch.
Fish Tank Cleaning Supplies
- Algae scrub pad
- Aquarium Gloves
- Fish net
- Razor blade (plastic blade for acrylic tanks)
- Water siphon (gravel vacuum)
- Filter brush
- Sponge
- Bamboo toothbrush
- Filter media
- 3 Buckets (for aquarium use only, bucket no. 1 is for fish, bucket no. 2 is for live plants, bucket no. 3 is for water changes and cleaning artificial plants, rocks, decorations and equipment))
- Paper towels
- Bleach (unscented and without any other added chemicals)
- Glass cleaner (for aquariums)
- Chlorine remover (aquarium water conditioner)
Step 1 – Unplug and Remove All Powered Devices to Your Tank
The next step is to unplug all powered devices from your tank. Next put on your aquarium gloves and remove any heaters, filters, tubing and air stones from the tank. This will keep these devices from getting broken through the cleaning process and free up access to more of the tank. From a safety perspective this will also keep you from the possibility of breaking any electrically powered devices and from getting shocked.
Step 2 – Cleaning the Inside Glass
Start by giving the inside glass a good cleaning with an algae scrub pad.
Buy algae pads at a pet shop instead of the home goods or cleaning supply section of a regular store. Out of the box the products look very similar the home goods stores or cleaning supply scrub pads can have soap or chemical residue. That residue doesn’t matter if you are cleaning your bathroom sink, but it would likely kill your fish.
If there is remaining algae that the scrub pad will not remove, use a razor blade to scrape it off. Use a razor blade extension arm to keep your fingers from the blade and to extend the reach around the entire tank. If your aquarium is acrylic, use a plastic razor blade, as standard razors will scratch the acrylic.
If your fish tank has a lid remove it and clean the inside or downward facing portion of the glass. This is the vapor barrier for water that naturally evaporates from the tank. As the evaporated water beads up on the inner lid mold can form, which is toxic to fish. Drying this surface from time to time and cleaning this surface when you clean your tank will prevent any harmful exposure to your fish.
Step 3 (Optional) – Remove Living Plants and Fish
If you can avoid removing the root systems of your living plants, you increase the likelihood of their longevity and survival. We recommend trimming your living plants of dead leaves or where they are over-grown rather than removing them. Moving fish from their home is stressful and stress is one of the primary killers of fish. If you can avoid moving your fish, we highly recommend it. If you plan to keep your fish in the tank through the cleaning process then skip down to step 4, option 1 and go from there.
If you are breaking down your tank or your tank is so dirty you feel removing plant life and fish are unavoidable, then start by filling up a bucket (no. 1) with clean water that is close to 25% of your tank’s capacity. Next treat the water in the bucket with chlorine remover. This will make the water safe for your fish whilst we follow the remaining steps. Use your fish net and remove you’re your fish from your tank to your bucket of water.
Now fill up a bucket (no. 2) with clean water and treat with chlorine remover. Carefully and slowly remove your living plants and place it in the bucket of de-chlorinated water. Keep in mind that disturbing the bottom of your tank without a gravel vacuum can release unwanted toxins into the tank water so try not to shake off any debris in the tank before removing.
Step 4 – Scrub and Clean Artificial Plants and Decorations
There are really two methods for cleaning artificial plants and decorations. Both of these options will end with clean results and are intended for either easy or difficult to clean surfaces.
- Option 1, Scrub your Ornaments and Artificial Plants – This is the fastest method and intended for cleaning of items with minimal buildup.
- Fill up your bucket (no. 3) with clean water and treat with chlorine remover.
- Carefully remove your artificial plants and decorations and place into the second bucket. Use a sponge to wipe away the algae and debris from your artificial plants and decorations. Use the same water to clean your heater, air bubble tubing and outer casing for your filter. For tough to remove spots or hard to reach areas use your all-natural bamboo toothbrush.
- Once the cleaning is finished complete step 5 below then place your artificial plants and decorations back into the tank. The remaining water in bucket number two should be discarded.
- Option 2, Bleach your Ornaments and Artificial Plants – For hardened and difficult to remove algae buildup use this method.
- Make sure you are wearing protective gloves and fill up your bucket (no. 3) with 9 cups of clean water and 1 cup of bleach into the bucket. If the water is not deep enough to submerge your items, then follow the 1-part bleach to 9-parts of water (1:9 ratio) recipe and add more to the bucket.
- Soak your aquarium ornaments and artificial plants for about 15 minutes. Discard the bleach water and re-fill the bucket (no. 3) with clean water. Scrub the artificial plants, rocks and ornaments with a sponge and brush under running water then let the items soak in the bucket (no. 3) with clean water for another 15 minutes.
- Once the cleaning is finished complete step 5 below then place your artificial plants and decorations back into the tank. The remaining water in the bucket (no. 3) should be discarded.
Step 5 – Clean Waste Material and Debris from the Bottom of the Tank with a Gravel Vacuum
In this step you will be cleaning the waste material and debris from the bottom of the tank while simultaneously removing about 25% of the water from your tank into your bucket (no. 3). A siphon can flow very quickly so if your gravel vacuum has an adjustable flow valve then adjust it so that you are able to remove waste material and debris from the bottom without draining more than 25% of the water. When using the gravel syphon, you want to slowly move through the substrate in a circular motion to maximize the vortex and suction power of the syphon. Using your gravel vacuum, clean the bottom of the tank then discard the water collected in your bucket (no. 3). After you finish cleaning the bottom of the tank, add your powered devices but do not turn them on until after the tank is filled with water. Add live plants from your bucket (no. 2) and your artificial plants, rocks and decorations.
Step 6 – Perform a 25% Water Change
Take your fish and water from bucket no. 2 and add to your fish tank. Your fish tank should be filled to its original level. Now it is safe to turn your electronic devices (water heater, filter, bubbler, etc.) back on. Keep in mind that fish need to adjust to changes in the water so with your water change add stress coat water conditioner to your tank to protect your fish while they adapt to the changes.
Water changes are an essential part of cleaning your fish tank. For maintenance of your fish tank it is recommended to change 10% to 25% of your water every 3 to 4 weeks. This recommendation is an average and regular water testing will help you determine the timing right for your tank.
Step 7 – Wait One Week to Clean or Replace the Filter
Once finished your fish tank water will be somewhat cloudy but after a few hours your filter will remove any remaining debris. Wait for one week to clean or replace your filter media.
You are finished! Now look at your beautiful fish tank.
Can two betta fish be in the same tank?
Male betta fish are naturally very territorial. It is possible to have more than one male betta in an aquarium if there is enough room for each of the males to carve out a territory of their own that is out of view of the other male. Most tanks are not large enough for two males to live together in a calm and unstressed state. A smaller tank would create overlapping territories leading to the two males living in a chronic stress state. Inevitably the two males will fight, often until one or both are injured or dead.
It is possible to have more than one female betta fish in an aquarium. Female bettas thrive best in groups of 4 to 6 called a ‘sorority’ and enjoy the safety of a diversity of hiding places that plants and decorations offer.
An aquarium with one male and one or more female betta fish may have unpredictable results and should only be attempted by an experienced aquarist. With a large tank male betta fish can live peacefully with female betta fish if they are slowly introduced to each other with the use of an adjacent tank. The two tanks side by side protect the female bettas from male aggression and give you a chance to determine if the females can be safely added.
If you plan to mate the betta fish, consider using a dedicated breeding tank. The male will create a bubble nest for the eggs to hatch. After 3 to 4 days the eggs will hatch and in about 4 more days the fry (baby fish) will begin to swim horizontally. At this point the male betta will need to be moved back to his home aquarium to keep his aggression from the female betta and to protect the fry as they grow.
Can a betta fish live with other fish?
Betta fish can live in an aquarium with other fish. This doesn’t always work but if you understand betta fish behaviors you will significantly improve the potential for successful cohabitation. For example, male betta fish are territorial so placing them in a tank first will essentially make them king of the aquarium. By placing them in after other fish have established themselves will encourage the betta to pick a spot to claim as their own.
Betta fish have larger bulkier fins, so they are naturally slow swimmers. Placing betta fish in a tank with fast swimming, non-aggressive community fish will ensure the tank mates can easily escape any betta aggression and reduce the chances of tank mates nipping at the betta fins.
Betta fish are labyrinth fish who breath through their mouths and as a result often like to swim close to the surface of the aquarium. Betta fish may choose an area of the tank close to the surface as their territory. Selecting tank mates that explore the entire tank as opposed to spending most of their time at the surface of the tank will reduce the stress and aggression of your betta fish.
Betta fish will only be aggressive to what they can see. Plenty of hiding places for all of your fish always improves the healthy cohabitation of betta and other tank mates. Lots of plants, rocks and decorations that block direct line of sight will not only keep your betta from getting board but provide plenty of protective cover to hide behind when the chase is on.
You can improve the likelihood of success if you follow the guidelines below:
- Adding New Fish to an Established Betta Fish Aquarium. Aquarium territory is defined by where the things in your tank are placed. If you have an established betta aquarium, remove your betta fish by temporarily placing him in a separate container outside of the fish tank.
- Move the decorations, rocks, filter location, etc. This will essentially make your aquarium look like a new aquarium to your betta fish.
- Add a dose of API Stress Coat to your aquarium. Allow your fish time to acclimate to the environment.
- Hang a fish breeding box over the edge hanging inside the tank and let it fill with water.
- Now place your betta fish in the breeding container for 20 to 30 minutes or until the aquarium fish lose interest in the betta and your betta fish is calm and not flaring his fins.
- Feed your aquarium fish with sinking fish food. This will focus the attention of the aquarium fish to the bottom of the tank and away from the betta fish.
- Release your betta fish into the aquarium.
- Watch the interactions between the fish for 20 to 30 minutes. If there is any aggression between the fish, remove the betta and put him back into the breeding container. Try introducing your betta back into the tank at the next feeding cycle, again use sinking fish food.
Release until no aggression is observed.
- Adding Betta Fish to an Established Fish Aquarium. Follow these steps if you are adding a betta fish to an established fish aquarium and there are no territorial or aggressive fish species in the tank. Your betta will be placed into a tank that is new to him so no territorial behavior will have been established.
- Add a dose of API Stress Coat to your aquarium.
- Hang a fish breeding box over the edge hanging inside the tank and let it fill with water.
- Now place your betta fish in the breeding container for 20 to 30 minutes or until the aquarium fish lose interest in the betta and your betta fish is calm and not flaring his fins.
- Feed your aquarium fish with sinking fish food. This will focus the attention of the aquarium fish to the bottom of the tank and away from the betta fish.
- Release your betta fish into the aquarium.
- Watch the interactions between the fish for 20 to 30 minutes. If there is any aggression between the fish, remove the betta and put him back into the breeding container. Try introducing your betta back into the tank at the next feeding cycle, again use sinking fish food. Release until no aggression is observed.
This method often works but is not a 100% guarantee for success. Each betta has its own personality, and some will not tolerate any tank mates regardless of how docile and friendly they are. However, our experience shows this method works more times than not.